Solvent-Based Finish: Strong odor, yet the most durable finish available. Average wear of approximately 3-5 years before recoating. Slight ambering. Available in high gloss, semi-gloss and satin finishes.

Water -Based Finish: Mild odor. Environmentally friendlier alternative to solvent-based finishes. However, not as durable as the solvent-based finishes. Can expect to recoat finish in approximately 2-5 years. Least ambering, keeping wood looking the most natural when used on floors that haven’t been stained. Available in high gloss or satin finishes.

Polyurethane (oil based): Medium odor. Most ambering of the three finishes. Should expect to recoat area in 3-5 years. Available in high gloss, semi-gloss and satin.

DRYING TIMES

Stains: In most cases, stains require 12 or more hours drying time prior to sealing and finishing. White, gray, pastel or very dark stains usually require a minimum or 72 hours drying time. This means no traffic across the floor, whatsoever. Even in most innocent light traffic on these stains will show up under the final coat of finish. Quite often, no visible indication can be seen until after the final coat has dried. Once marked, these floors retain the imprint until they are resanded. There are no guaranteed methods for spot removing such marks.

Finishes: Initial coats of most solvent or water-based finishes are sufficiently dry in 4 to 6 hours to withstand light foot traffic. The top coat or “final coat” should be allowed 24 hours drying time before subjecting it to light traffic. Penetrating oils and waxes should be given 6 to 8 hours drying time. Traffic of any sort on fresh stains or finishes usually requires a complete resanding. Please note these are minimum drying times! Cold and damp weather significantly extends drying times. Newly finished floors should be subjected only to light traffic for 3 to 7 days following final application. Many finishes require 90 days to fully cure and reach their maximum hardness.

TOP NAILED FLOORING

Top nailed floors require all nails to be set prior to the sanding process. This type of flooring dies not hold filling compounds well and the nails have a habit of pushing their way back to the surface during the sanding process. Expect up to 5% unfilled holes or “shiners” (nail heads flush with the surface) in such floors.

FILLING CRACKS AND HOLES

The basic procedure involves thoroughly filling all cracks and holes during the initial sanding process then “spot filling” remaining holes and cracks between coats of finish.

EXPECTATIONS

Many of us have become so accustomed to factory milled and finished products that we no longer know what to expect from a hand crafted, site finished piece, such as a wood floor. Variations in grain, finish texture or color may be imperfections in machine tooled, die stamped or assembly line product, but an immense part of the beauty in solid site finished wood flooring is its one-of-a-kind nature. This can only come from hand tooling, hand rubbing and hand finishing inside your own environment where nothing is ever dust proof or factory fresh. Areas of main concern are expectations on pet and water-stained areas, knife cuts from carpet pads and nail holes from the carpet tack strip.

Wood flooring is a unique asset to any home. It’s a singularly rare, yet moderately priced hand crafted item that every member of your household and guests will scuff, gouge, drag things across, fall on, lie on, walk over and otherwise use for many years.

Floor finished are designed and applied to accept foot traffic..secondarily they are applied to give a fairly uniform coating that will improve in both durability and appearance as it cures. If you appraise your floor’s worth by its lack of irregularities in finish, grain and gaping, you must severely limit foot traffic across it as you would the fine finishes found on top of your tables, piano or other fine furniture.

WHAT CAUSES CRACKS AND CUPPING IN FLOORING

In most Northwest homes, cracks between boards cannot be avoided. Hardwood flooring will expand and contract from changes in moisture within the home. Moist air, spills or leaks can cause boards to expand and cup. Dry air can cause boards to shrink and gap. Structures without moisture control devices in heating and/or cooling systems will usually exhibit some slight cupping during warm moist summer months and some gaping between boards during winter heating months.

Light and colored woods (maple, ash, etc.) or floors stained to produce white, gray, pastel or other light shades should be expected to exhibit “apparently” larger cracks between boards. The strong contrast between their light color and the dark colored gaps often makes normal gaps appear abnormal.

Wood flooring near or adjacent to heating registers, appliance venting, wood burning stoves or other sources of drying or dehumidification will usually exhibit more pronounced gaping between boards.

Insulation modifications or shifts in heating and cooling practices frequently affect the appearance of wood flooring. Shifts in weight bearing sections or settling will often result in boards separating, lifting or twisting. Separation between strips of planks, especially in solid wood flooring, must be expected, especially during dry indoor periods, and should not be looked upon as a deficiency, weakness or flaw unless it becomes unduly excessive.

Gaps may appear between boards, especially in newly constructed houses, as the house dries out and during the winter heating season. Larger cracks can be filled with color putty. If you have reason to expect greater than normal fluctuations in relative humidity inside your structure and you want to reduce the amount of normal cupping or gaping that is exhibited between boards, we strongly suggest you install a humidity control device within your heating and/or cooling systems.

In only the most extreme situations do gaps or cupping in wood flooring result from conditions under which you have no control. You should measure, evaluate and record moisture levels in both flooring and underlayment prior to and during installation to lessen the potential for problems relating to extremes in dryness or wetness at the time of installation.

MAINTENANCE AND CARE OF YOUR HARDWOOD FLOOR

1. Do not walk on the floor for the first 12-24 hours.

2. Subject floors only to light traffic (socks only) for 3-7 days following the final coat of finish. Use an untreated dust mop or vacuum to keep dirt and grit from abrading the surface. Do not damp mop the area for the first two weeks. Keep area rugs, heavy furniture and appliances off the floor if at all possible, Make sure your floor gets plenty of air to cure properly.

3. It is never recommended to wear hard-soled or high-heeled shoes on any type of wood flooring, particularly during the initial two week period.

4. If furniture must be moved during this time, lay a very thick pad over the area to be moved across. If your are resetting appliances, especially refrigerators, you should use an appliance dolly over plywood, over a piece of carpet, If the flooring is damaged, you may have to wait a full 90 days before attempting repair.

5. Never wax or use any type of polishers on solvent or water-based Swedish finished. This will dull the shine, interfere with future recoating, and make your floor very slippery.

6. After the first two weeks clean using a vacuum, untreated dust mop or an electric broom. Use the manufacturers recommended cleaner or a solution of one cup white distilled vinegar in one gallon of lukewarm water to lightly damp mot the floor. A non-diluted manufacturers cleaner or mild bas soap and a sponge may be used on stubborn spots, however, be sure to rinse thoroughly when cleaning with soap.

7. NOTE: Do not use vinegar/water solution on Water-Based type finishes.

8. Never pour water directly on your hardwood floor, Do not use hot water on your hardwood floor.

9. When cleaning procedures fail to clean the floor or when the finish begins to show wear, it is time to touch-up with Aerosol Touchup Spray or recoat.

10. Install wool or felt glides under your chairs, tables and other furniture to prevent scratching and scuffing.

11. Keep high heels in good repair - they can dent wood floors.

12. Replace metal or plastic chair wheels with rubber replacements.